As the sun goes down
Have you ever noticed how a space changes as the light goes? As the temperatures begin to drop and the mood settles going into the evening? During summer here, it was when the life really sprung up. People were everywhere. Now, as it gets darker earlier and gets a bit colder sooner, the change in the atmosphere is significant. You can see the fatigue more on people's faces. More people are wrapped up in layers with much of them hidden away. While it still isn't too cold here, the change in the past month has really been something. While it is harder to do photography in darker spaces, I don't think my energy is as affected by the lack of light. I find a comfort in it, the slower pace of living. Though people feel more rushed here suddenly, they're quicker to get off of the bus, quicker to walk through the streets and get home. Less sit around in the parks, less find interest in ultimately sitting in the dark somewhere. That I can understand.
I did a similar walk to what I did yesterday: I walked up near the huge market, and around it. I saw a huge sign that I want to photograph another time that was above an old factory reading something along the lines of "We give our all to the nation". A remnant of the former life that was once here in Armenia. Sometimes you stumble across such things. At the very entrance of this large building was a sign that also stated its original purpose: a fabrics making factory. The doors still original from the 70s. Much of it locked up and empty though, only the inner sides of the factory remain in use. I walked through it yesterday out of curiosity, wanting to go inside but not having that confidence. I did, however, notice the ventilation of shafts of a nuclear bunker lurking within the car park. Oh yes, my interest has piqued. But I don't quite feel like getting into trouble at the moment.
I do feel the sense of exploration returning though. As per yesterday's post which was more focused on that feeling of exploration again. I have that curiosity I had before that was lost during summer with that intensity of the heat. I think part of it is also being in a new area, where things feel different, much older. The style of living here is so different to the other areas of Yerevan I've been in. It's more residential, more generational. So many kinds of different faces pass by in the courtyards and main streets. Many of which are both younger and older. People seem to know each other more as well from living here for so long. Another aspect of time that has shifted a bit in the newer buildings. I don't think I ever actually talked to a single person in my old (new) building.
Much like seasons changing, I guess a space changes with it. People seem different. Moods shift. Energy changes. Regardless how of, it's nice to be able to notice it all again. Not having this feeling of tunnel vision in any space I had previously. Instead, I feel immersed within the world around me yet again.
This was a really interesting post and I like your thoughts.
While I was reading the beginning of your post, was thinking how people are behaving when the day gets dark and how this behavior differs from country to country.
Take for example Nordic countries, where people don't get to spend time outside daylight as they go to work in the dark and go home after sunset. Life doesn't stop, they go skying in the dark, or hiking also in the dark. In other countries dark means end of the day outside. I understand there are security reasons as well, but this is not the sole reason for this behavior.
One of the first things I noticed in Armenia was how the more male dominated traditions led to women just completely disappearing once the sun would go down. In some areas (particularly towns outside of the capital) you just won't see women outside at all after a certain time regardless of the time of year. In certain districts of Yerevan it's somewhat like this. I lived in a newly constructed area before and it still had that feeling to it. Though this older district feels a bit more lively, it's almost surprising to see such a wide range of people outside even as it gets dark. I see way more teenagers, women, older people.
With Yerevan being so small, you even see it in the very centre. At a certain time, the city just empties up. You'll just see groups of the stereotypical 90s/2000s all-black jeans and leather jacket types standing around coffee vending machines and smoking with their friends. While this place is generally very safe, the nation does have a bit of a reputation for having creepy men that tend to approach women in the street.
What's interesting to me though is that having been here for a few years now, I am noticing how that too is shifting. Younger people have a lot of care for their culture, but really reject the more restricting sides of it. Halloween is a good example; the strong religious beliefs here have people very against the holiday, but the younger groups just see it as a bit of fun and now participate even if they're met with protesting types in the city. Women also want to be safe and properly live, not wanting to be stuck at home just because it's getting dark or simply because "A woman should be at home."
I think it's good that these younger generations are pushing back a bit. Yerevan (and Armenia) are generally very small places and not with a whole lot of things to do for younger people. I can't imagine the boredom of growing up here and having so much energy but being stuck indoors or limited to what you can do because of a mentality around you.
From what you said above, it seems like they are ready to make the next step and once the next generation grows up, things are going to change. This lifestyle is of the past, so it's just a matter of time in my opinion.
That is valid worldwide, no woman wants to spend her whole life at home, just because men think they are allowed to do everything. Life should be safe for everyone, 24/7.