Naples Diaries #1

Hello dear travel lovers. I decided to spend three days in Naples and inhale this intense atmosphere to the fullest. In my opinion, if you gathered all of Italy and all the clichés about it into a single city, you would end up with Naples. This city brings all of Italy together. Right next to the smells emanating from the rotting garbage in the center, the amazing aromas of traditional pastries, coffee, seafood, burnt rubber and old diesel blend together. Magnificent palaces, murals, slums, high-crime neighborhoods and right above them, viewpoints opening up to Italy’s greatest beauties.

Naples is located in southwestern Italy, on the coast of the Tyrrhenian sea and is one of the country's most important port cities. Many tourists visit the city via cruise ships. Some arrive from Rome by bus or train in a journey of two hours at most. But the majority reach the local airport by plane. The city center can be reached by express buses. Surprisingly everything here is quite simple and clear. You follow the signboard arrows, buy a ticket from the booth for five euros and reach the train station. However this simplicity and convenience end right there. Because at that exact point, I think the real Naples adventure begins.

Whether we call all these local characteristics a colorful atmosphere, authenticity or the cheerful and carefree nature of the locals, everyone who comes here immediately notices the poverty and disorder. The numbers confirm this too. We could feel that we were in the capital of one of Italy's poorest regions. While the per capita national income in the Campania region is between 18 and 20 thousand euros, this figure is more than double in the north around 38 to 45 thousand euros. This situation is immediately evident from the old and cheap cars on the streets, the lack of landscaping, the dilapidated state of the buildings and the abundance of graffiti.

Furthermore in most of the massive buildings we saw, the elevators were installed later and required payment. Those living on the first or second floor don't pay, but residents on the upper floors have to drop coins into the elevator every time they go up and down. In short poverty and occasional misery make themselves felt immediately. Actualy when examined closely, it becomes clear that the palaces and churches here wouldn't be built out of nowhere. There was definitely a serious flow of money here once upon a time.

This wealth began when the Greeks established the first settlement here in the seventh century BC. Centuries later the city was destroyed and a new city was founded right next to it. This new settlement is thought to have been established where the medieval Castel dell’Ovo castle stands today. The name of the city emerged naturally. Neapolis meaning New City. In this regard the capital of Campania has many global namesakes. Novgorod in Russia, Newtown in the USA, Neustadt in Germany, Novo Mesto in Slovenia and many other examples, including Carthage. The word Carthage also means New city. Judging by some of the buildings, one gets the feeling that a similar fate awaits Naples.

Yet unlike Carthage, Naples had the chance to become a part of the Roman Empire. Even back then there was an important port here. Due to the proximity of thermal springs and the beauty of the region, Roman nobles loved to relax in Naples. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the city passed into Byzantine rule. In the tenth century it was attached to the Kingdom of Sicily and soon became the capital. In honor of this event Castel Nuovo, one of the most important symbols of the city was built. Its construction took only three years. This duration is prety much the same as the time the local mafia needs today just to clear the garbage from a single street.

Castel Nuovo hosted the court of the Kingdom of Naples for centuries. Its western facade tells the beginning of a new era for the city. There is a triumphal arch built to commemorate the conquest. The King of Aragon originaly wanted to build an independent arch in the Roman style, but due to fear of a rebellion where the dynastic coat of arms could be damaged, he decided to place the structure in a safer spot between the towers of the castle. Thus, Naples acquired the first work of Renaissance architecture in all of southern Italy. Even if unofficial this marked the beginning of the Spanish rule that would last for four centuries.

There are two different urban layers in Naples. The first is the layer where the trade of vegetables,fruits and all kinds of goods is actively carried out. There are also endless, noisy scooters.In short life is buzzing here. On one hand, this situation might seem daunting and that is why most people run away from Naples. On the other hand people flock here because there are very few cities left in Italy that have managed to keep life so vibrant even in their center, especially ones as beautiful and large as Naples.

The other important and cultural layer begins from the third and fourth floors up. This petrified layer never changes. It undoubtedly possesses a mesmerizing beauty. When you get a bit disheartened and tired from the first layer, you can look up and admire this unchanging and always glamorous view. Of course, the apartments hanging out laundry change things a little.

Leaving the extremely noisy street, we stepped into a courtyard and once again I was spellbound. Because before us stood the fascinating Palazzo dello Spagnolo and its famous stairs, where words fall short. The building was constructed by architect Ferdinando Sanfelice. I don't know what can be said about the Rococostyle stairs. When walking on that noisy street, you usually look under your feet to avoid falling, so you don't notice this beauty. Actually the building on our left as we walked was a beautiful palace bearing the same name. But we barely saw it.

Upon entering here we were able to examine everything in detail. Over time, the palace took the name Palazzo dello Spagnolo because it was bought by a very wealthy man nicknamed the Spaniard. You must definitely come here. I am sure the best photos among the buildings in Naples can be taken here. Because it is both not very crowded and where else in the world could you see such a structure? Forget Naples, it is rare to find its like even in the world.

Now I want to say a few words about hotels and apartment rentals. I rented an apartment near the shopping street Via dei Mille, in one of the quietest and cleanest areas of the city. The nightly price of this luxury apartment cost me only 65 euros. If you are planning a trip too, it makes the most sense to handle the payment issues in advance, get a virtual card and use it wherever you wish. I made the payment via Booking using a virtual card. I think a virtual card provides great convenience while traveling all over the world. This way you don't have to deal with exchange offices or carry cash with you.

We went out into the noisy streets of Naples again. After walking about 300 meters from Palazzo dello Spagnolo, we came across a very interesting courtyard. Unfortunately though it has worn down over time, luckily this wear occurred homogeneously. So the courtyard doesn't look bad even now. Of course a renovation wouldn't be bad at all. It's hard to comment on the situation.

However as ordinary tourists, even while walking, we can see the beauty here or at least this interesting vibe. It is very nice to come across such open courtyards and stairs in Naples. Outsid life was practically buzzing with an incredible noise, while absolute silence reigned where we were. This was highly enjoyable.

Then we left the courtyard and moved on to the next very interesting place. 

We walked about 15 meters more and came across another work by Ferdinando Sanfelice. This project was designed about 15 years before Palazzo dello Spagnolo. However as it appears, it is crystal clear that Ferdinando was a true master at creating these kinds of open staircase structures. I know that commercials are frequently shot in this courtyard. These stairs are very often preferred when someone wants to shoot an interesting commercial with an atmospheric, unusual background. It's not hard to understand why. Let's say we needed to shoot a model and a perfume or a new clothing collection here. I think it would give wonderful results and I would buy that outfit myself.

Of course these works of Sanfelice are not the most popular spots on Naples tourist map. These courtyards remain a bit far from the center and only a very small number of people stop by here. However almost everyone visits the neighborhoods where Via dei Tribunali and Via San Gregorio Armeno are located. This also has its own unique texture. In terms of historical buildings, everything is in its proper place here too. First comes the Cathedral of San Gennaro, the largest holy site in Naples. This temple almost embodies the entire history of the city. A Pagan temple of Apollo, ancient Greek walls, a Roman aqueduct, an early Christian baptistery and Gothic chapels have all come together in its structure.

The current building was constructed in the early fourteenth century and was subsequently rebuilt and expanded multiple times, incorporating Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical elements. Aside from its religious and historical importance, visiting churches in Naples literally means stepping into a different world. You forget the noise, the heat, the garbage. You are left alone with the works of the best masters of their era. This is also true for the Sansevero Chapel. A fantastic place absolutely worth visiting. Right next to it is the Gesu Nuovo Church, which has the most unusual facade in all of Italy. It has a rather eerie appearance. The church was established on the site of an old fifteenth century palace. When the Jesuits bought the building, they hardly changed the facade, which was made of a very hard local limestone in the shape of pyramids. Yet behind the harsh exterior appearance, magnificent Baroque interiors are hidden.

Afterward all tourists, one way or another, end up on Via Toledo, the main pedestrian street named after the Spanish viceroy of Naples. This is quite symbolic since almost the entire layout of the old city took shape during the years of Spanish rule. During the Aragon dynasty period, Naples became a center of attraction for artists and scientists. Under the Habsburgs, it became one of the largest cities in Europe, second only to Paris in terms of population. To find out what happened next, we had to walk along Via Toledo street and reach the city's main square, Piazza del Plebiscito.

Here lies one of the most famous architectural structures in Naples. The Basilica of San Francesco di Paola, adorned on both sides with semicircular covered colonnades. The Royal Palace, Palazzo della Prefettura and Palazzo Salerno complement the square perfectly. The name of the square Plebiscito, meaning referendum, was not chosen by coincidence either. After the Napoleonic Wars the administration returned to the Bourbons, the minor branch of the Spanish dynasty.

I am concluding what I have to say about Naples here for today. On my next posts I will continue to share the places I visited and saw here with you. See you very soon.