My Montenegro Travel Notes Part 3 - Žabljak, Durmitor, Đurđevića Tara and Piva Lake

Hello my friends. Continuing our Montenegro trip, after spending four amazing days in Sveti Stefan, we headed north. A journey awaited us where we would almost traverse the entire country from south to north. The drive takes about three hours in total. We set aside almost the entire evening for this, so we even had the chance to stop at one of the viewing terraces and enjoy the breathtaking beauty at sunset.

A kilometer off the coast, there are two rocky islets and a small church sits atop one of them. Unfortunately, it’s hard to see it up close because of the distance and in any case, you’d need to rent a boat. But with enough determination, I believe everything is possible. After a warm spring day, we hopped into our car and drove straight to the town of Žabljak without stopping.

Here we found ourselves in the middle of a real, harsh, snowy winter. Just the day before, we had set out at +20 degrees, basking in the sun and wandering in t-shirts. Now, everything was covered in snow and the temperature was 1 degrees. From what I understand, even for northern Montenegro, this wasn’t typical weather. It was almost May, so I guess it was a bit unusual. According to the hotel owner, almost no snow had fallen here by the end of April and even during winter, it hadn’t snowed properly. So this snowfall surprised everyone. But it didn’t change our plans and we proceeded toward our first destination, the Black lake.

Entrance was 5 euros, parking 2 euros and then we walked 700 meters to the lake. I feel like I was in snowy Finland because the area was full of spruce trees. We walked toward the lakes. Of course, the paths were perfectly paved. By the way there are good hotels everywhere here. It feels like a village. But a village with hotels and infrastructure. We even saw a very stylish sports facility. Overall there is an absolute sense of peace and tranquility.

We entered Durmitor National Park, which is a huge area. During the two days we spent there, we continued to explore its most important parts. When winter passes and the sun comes out, this place can look completely different. But I thought it was beautiful even that day. It just wasn’t as bright because the mountain peaks were hidden in clouds and mist. There’s a mysterious and peaceful atmosphere, but let’s be honest, the view wasn’t very clear. Actually, throughout April and the entire summer that follows, this place impresses above all with its colors. Greens and yellows spread across the fields. The deep blue lake looks stunning against the backdrop of the mountains. That is what really captivates people. Of course, its winter appearance is also impressive, but the colors weren’t exactly as I had expected.

While preparing for my Montenegro trip, I realized that the word that best fits this country is diversity. Because in such a small country, mountains, the sea, lakes and everything come together. But I hadn’t expected the weather to be so variable. When I arrived in Podgorica, it was +30 degrees and sunny and going outside was difficult. Now it was around -2 degrees, snowing and… yes, it was very interesting and I wasn’t prepared for it at all.

A real snowstorm began and in these conditions, the mountains were already invisible. So we returned to the hotel, hoping the sun would come out in the evening. According to forecasts, we had a chance. You know, when you really want something and believe in it, it’s as if the universe listens: the mist clears, the sun shines and dazzling views appear all around… But this time, it didn’t happen. We waited until 4 pm and the sun never came out.

The sun didn’t come out, but at least the snowfall stopped. On the other hand, a strong wind picked up and we moved to one of the best viewing terraces. It’s definitely beautiful during bright days in May or June. Objectively, this wasn’t bad either. It had a different kind of charm. But of course, looking at photos or drone footage from this region can be a bit disappointing.

The road itself is fantastic. You drive along rocky landscapes and on our left was a very beautiful river. I’m sure driving here is pure joy. Maybe even by bicycle or just on foot… But I never expected there would be so much snow or that we would see such landscapes. As we advanced, the scenery became even more interesting. The ice formations ahead were fascinating, almost surreal.

That day we couldn’t go more than 10 kilometers in the park because the heavy snowfall was causing vehicles to get stuck. We didn’t take any risks and decided to come back the next day if we were lucky. Meanwhile, even though visibility was very low that day, as we turned the curves on this road, it felt like a sea of emotions. As you can imagine, our car was completely alone there.

On the last day of our journey, early in the morning, we decided to go to a place that can be considered a perfect example of human engineering blending with magnificent nature. A huge green valley stretches, surrounded by mountains, with a river flowing through it in emerald waters and a large yet elegant bridge spans this grandeur. Finally, luck was on our side. On our last day in the north, the sun finally appeared, offering stunning views. I think there aren’t many tourists here in any season, not just April and that day we were completely alone.

By the way Žabljak, where we set off, sits at 1400 meters and was completely under clouds. We descended winding roads and here everything was lush, bright and flowers were just beginning to bloom. The bridge was designed by Yugoslav engineer Mijat Trojanović. The project was implemented at the end of the 1930s and just a few years after its opening, they had to demolish the largest arch over the water to halt the progress of the war. The project was restored in 1946 and today this is one of the must-see places when traveling in northern Montenegro.

What impressed me the most was how such a complex structure and challenging task were designed so elegantly, using materials that didn’t seem particularly suitable at first glance. Up close, you can see the bridge is made entirely of reinforced concrete. It’s 365 meters long, with a distance of almost 200 meters to the river. But thanks to its scale, five elegant arches and especially its curved form, I think this bridge is one of the most beautiful in the Balkans.

Afterward we returned to Durmitor to see the entire park. Surprisingly, by the time we went to the bridge and back, the park staff had cleared almost the entire road. And this road isn’t just 5-10 kilometers. The surrounding beauty is all around; the road winds along the rocks, sometimes rising, sometimes gently descending, sometimes approaching snow-covered mountain peaks. You occasionally encounter small viewing terraces. In short, a paradise for anyone who loves road trips.

Here’s a detail: we didn’t see any sign marking the beginning of the national park when entering. Just a well-maintained asphalt road and breathtaking views everywhere. When we stopped to take a photo, a car approached us to collect payment. There isn’t a fixed ticket booth here. The attendant comes to you and tells you that each visitor must pay 5 euros. It’s a bit of an unpleasant surprise, but you do receive a ticket. This is how the payment system actually works here, so be prepared.

I hadn’t enjoyed driving this much in a long time. It felt like a perfect safari prepared just for us; the snow was cleared, the asphalt ideal and mountains everywhere… You experience genuine childlike excitement. We had about another hour on these roads. In some places, we couldn’t stop.

I had a thought: we were walking in snow in the middle of fields and not a single soul was around. Yet the airport and the capital were only an hour, maybe an hour and a half away by car. It was incredible how simple and accessible it all was.

We descended a long winding road and reached Piva lake. It was noticeably warmer here, around 15 degrees and the sun was warming us. Behind us was another country: Bosnia. The border was only 15 kilometers away. As for the lake’s name, it comes from the Piva River that flows into it. Even if the water weren’t this clear, I think its drinkable quality wouldn’t change. Piva lake was the final destination of this journey. We walked along its shore, climbed a few viewing terraces and then headed toward Podgorica as soon as possible.

I should point out something: maybe this trip sounds a bit rosy, everything seems wonderful, diverse and accessible… like a fairytale country. But, as in every country, there are flaws and challenges here too. This is just how it appears through a local’s eyes. We explored Montenegro as tourists and this offers a completely different perspective of the country. From a tourism standpoint, this country seems nearly ideal. That’s why I felt enthusiastic and happy here.

This was my first major Montenegro trip experience. The first word I would definitely associate with this country is diversity. The diversity of everything… I didn’t expect the weather to be so contrasting; strolling in t-shirts in Kotor, freezing in Žabljak with three layers, a coat and a hat. One of my main recommendations is that when visiting Montenegro, you shouldn’t stay only in a single resort, at least visit nearby villages and towns. If possible, rent a car, drive along these winding roads, explore the national park and walk along the shores of the magnificent lakes.

See you soon, my friends.