And Other Walks

I’ve always believed that the best travel moments are the ones you didn’t plan for. When I arrived in Prague recently, my mind was on the Gothic spires and the weight of Bohemian history. I had no idea I was walking straight into the peak of cherry blossom season.

As I made my way toward Petřín Hill, I was hit by a sight I hadn’t anticipated: the entire eastern slope was a cascading wave of soft pink and white. There are over 2,000 fruit trees in the Seminary Garden there, and seeing them in full bloom against the backdrop of the red-tiled roofs of Malá Strana was nothing short of cinematic.

It turns out that Petřín actually takes its name from the Latin word petra (rock), and as a geologist, I couldn't help but notice the sturdy Cretaceous sandstone and marlstone outcropping beneath all that delicate floral beauty. It’s a hill built on ancient stone that, for a few brief weeks in April, decides to look like a painting.

The most surreal moment happened mid-ascent. A sudden gust of wind caught the slope just right, blowing directly toward me. In an instant, the air was thick with pink; it felt like a warm, floral blizzard. For a few seconds, I stood there completely covered in cherry blossoms, the petals clinging to my clothes.

It will be hard to forget this walk up to Petrin tower and back, because it is highly unlikely that I will be able to replicate this experience even if I get back to Prague, which I will almost certainly be.

The first picture of my previous post of Prague was taken from the top observatory of the tower. The idea for the tower was born in 1889 when members of the Club of Czech Tourists visited the Exposition Universelle in Paris. They were so awestruck by the brand-new Eiffel Tower that they decided Prague needed its own version. They moved remarkably fast. They founded an association, raised the funds, and began construction in March 1891. It was completed in just four months to be the centerpiece of the Jubilee Exhibition of 1891. The Petřín Tower is only about 63.5 meters (208 feet) tall—roughly one-fifth the height of the original. However, because it sits on top of Petřín Hill, its summit is actually at almost the exact same altitude above sea level as the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Today it serves as an observation deck and public park all around the hill. It is by far one of the most pleasant walk around Prague.

The main city walk

Since I didn't have enough time in the city, I decided to take on the Rick Steves Prague City Walk. I downloaded the audio guide, pulled up the map, and set out to hit all 18 points of interest.

https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/audio/audio-tours/czech

https://d3dqioy2sca31t.cloudfront.net/Projects/cms/production/000/013/776/original/6af74b6905840dc05552e3dd935baa1e/prague-city-walk-map.pdf

The walk takes about 4 hours with stops and it is easy to do. If you don't know anything about the city at all, I highly recommend this free audio tour as an introduction to the city. It is possible to start and stop at any time and there is an iPhone app.

1. Wenceslas Square (The modern heart)
2. Grand Hotel Europa (Art Nouveau elegance)
3. Lucerna Arcade (David Černý’s upside-down horse)
4. Estate’s Theater (Where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni)
5. Powder Tower (The old city gate)
6. Municipal House (A pinnacle of Art Nouveau)
7. Celetná Street (The Royal Way)
8. Old Town Square (The historical hub)
9. Jan Hus Memorial (Symbol of Czech defiance)
10. Astronomical Clock (The 600-year-old marvel)
11. Týn Church (The "fairy tale" spires)
12. St. Nicholas Church (Baroque grandeur)
13. Jewish Quarter (Josefov and the Old-New Synagogue)
14. Charles Bridge (The iconic Vltava crossing)
15. Lesser Town (Malá Strana) (Baroque streets below the castle)
16. St. Nicholas Church (Lesser Town) (Dazzling interiors)
17. Nerudova Street (The steep climb with heraldic signs)
18. Prague Castle & St. Vitus Cathedral (The crowning glory)

That is the famous Astronomical clock at the Old Town Square of Prague. I have done a lot of Wikipedia to try and read it effectively, but its been difficult at the time. I have slightly better control over it now, but it is still hard. The thing I fail to understand why every single tourist gather in front of it. I say it is another unsolved mystery of the modern tourism. I say it is the "Monalisa Effect"; whether you are interested in Monalisa or not, it is important to visit the painting and perhaps take a picture in front of it.

But for me, a random tram stop called Malostranské náměstí pictured above is much more aesthetically pleasing, especially if I can have a good coffee and Tiramisu while sitting at a corner cafe.

I can't wait to get back to Prague!