I must admit that when I first came to Japan and took my first trip through the Land of the Rising Sun, I didn't really understand the appeal of the thermal baths known here as onsen. My visit here was rather coincidental, happening on the way back from a much longer trip, and at the time I didn't really know what to expect here in the Far East.
Of course, I had done a little research and read something about Japanese bathing culture. But in the end, I was interested in completely different things, and my main concern was not really to take a hot bath here in Japan.
That didn't change so quickly, even when I was later allowed to stay in the country a little longer. There were still completely different things that caught my attention and that I wanted to spend my time on.
But over time, that became different and I learned to appreciate the benefits of visiting an onsen. This is probably also due in part to my age, where one appreciates a relaxing warm bath much more. And that's exactly why I'm now always quote happy when we find accommodation on our travels that also offers an onsen. And when we're there, I try to take a hot bath at least twice – simply because the opportunity is there and because once would just not be enough.
On our last trip to the Aizu region in western Fukushima, we rented a small bungalow in a hotel complex. It was quite simply furnished, but we were able to use the thermal bath in the main building, which we naturally didn't want to miss out on.
We went there once after dinner, and I went again after breakfast. Not because I was dirty again, but because I simply wanted to take advantage of the opportunity once more.
And today's picture gallery is from that very visit to the onsen.
The late autumn morning was still quite chilly, and there was a little early morning fog over the grounds. But this scene seemed almost magical to me, and I felt great running across this meadow. The fresh, cool air here in the mountains was simply wonderful.
And now we're in the changing room for the onsen, where I was almost alone. So it was no problem to take a few pictures.
Here, you take off all your clothes before entering the actual bath.
But before you can take a bath, you have to take a shower first. Because one rule is that no dirt or soap should get into the water. That's why you wash yourself thoroughly before bathing, which you should repeat again after bathing.
The onsen here had several pools and a sauna, and there was also an outdoor area. Here we see a small whirlpool on the left, which is a little unusual in Japan. The water here wasn't quite as warm, so I didn't stay in here too long.
Then I'd rather go in the large pool, which has a water temperature of just under 40 degrees Celsius. That may sound quite high, but after a very short acclimatization phase, it's actually really pleasant.
It's usually even better outside, especially in winter. Lying in hot water with your head outside in the cold air—a wonderful feeling that almost every Japanese person can confirm.
The outdoor facilities in particular are often very interestingly designed and have a typically Japanese feel to them. And as time goes by, you get closer and closer to the source from which the hot water flows.
This onsen also looked a little like a small swimming pool, but that's probably due to its function. At night in the dark, it's not quite so noticeable, and then of course it's even more cozy.
But the maple trees standing in one corner created a wonderful atmosphere with their orange-red leaves, and you could really feel the magic of autumn that had enchanted us so often in the weeks before.
With just a few subtle details, Japanese garden designers consistently succeed in creating an atmosphere that immediately captivates visitors and refuses to let them go. This atmosphere is even stronger and more intense in autumn.
It is probably this transience that fascinates us so much about this time of year, and which was also very evident here in this onsen. Here on that autumn morning, in that hot bath, I was keenly aware that this intense moment was wonderful and very relaxing, but that it would soon be over. Ultimately, this applies to almost everything we experience; everything is just a snapshot in time that many people will not even remember later on.
And I found this moment here in the hot onsen and also the sight of the many small leaves so wonderful that I didn't want to get out of the water on that late autumn morning. But our journey was not over yet, and we still had a nice program ahead of us for the rest of the day.
And even though it was also a farewell, I was able to take a little bit of this wonderful atmosphere with me and preserve it. It's memories like these that I like to bring back to my consciousness time and again, and which I can still enjoy later on.
The next visit to an onsen will have to wait a little longer, but I'm sure I'll enjoy it just as much as my bath here on that early morning. Let's see how and where I'll be lying and dreaming in hot water time....
