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STOP AT RASO ISLAND - MEETING THE BIRDS OF RASO ISLAND

(edited)

STOP AT RASO ISLAND - MEETING THE BIRDS OF THE RASO ISLAND


CAPEVERDE



Fr
En
đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Je me lance avec cette sĂ©rie "STOP" dans le rĂ©cit de quelques escales. Je ne vais pas les faire dans l'ordre chronologique, juste par envie des histoires pour dĂ©poussiĂ©rer quelques vieux souvenirs.

Nous sommes ici à Rabaul en Papouasie Nouvelle Guinée.
🇬🇧 I’m embarking with this serie "STOP" in stories of a few stopovers. I won’t do them in order, just out of desire and to dust off some old memories.

We are here at Rabaul in Papua New Guinea.

Fr
En
đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Contrairement Ă  l’OcĂ©an Pacifique, l’OcĂ©an Atlantique ne propose pas Ă©normĂ©ment d’üles dans sa zone tropicale. Le Cap-Vert et les Canaries (mĂȘme si ces derniĂšres ne sont pas sous les tropiques) sont les seules terres immergĂ©es avant les CaraĂŻbes. Une petite contraintes pour les navigateurs, mais une contrainte bien plus grande pour les oiseaux marins de cette partie de l’OcĂ©an. Car si les oiseaux marins fuient la terre pour leur quotidien, ils en ont besoin pour se reproduire et nicher. Dans le Nord de l’archipel du Cap-Vert, un petit cailloux totalement isolĂ© de quelques centaines de mĂštres de diamĂštre, offre un abri pour de nombreuses espĂšces d’oiseaux. C’est ici que nous nous sommes rendus et oĂč nous continuons Ă  nous rendre, lĂ  oĂč ça pialle, ça cague et oĂč l’oiseau est seul locataire des lieux !
🇬🇧 Unlike the Pacific Ocean, the Atlantic Ocean does not offer a lot of islands in its tropical area. Cape Verde and the Canaries (even if the latter are not in the tropics) are the only lands submerged before the Caribbean. A small constraint for navigators, but a much larger constraint for the seabirds of this part of the Ocean. Because if marine birds flee the land for their daily life, they need it to reproduce and nest. In the north of the Cape Verde archipelago, a small stone completely isolated a few hundred meters in diameter, offers shelter for many species of birds. It is here that we went and where we continue to go, where it flies, it floats and where the bird is the only tenant of the place!

Fr
En
đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Inutile de prĂ©ciser que pour se rendre autour de l’ülot Raso, un bateau est indispensable. SituĂ© Ă  environ 10 milles nautiques de l’ülot de San Nicolau, l’ülot Raso est totalement isolĂ© et inhabitĂ©. Seule une cabane abrite un garde surveillant le respect des rĂšgles sur cet Ăźlot, Ă  savoir que personne n’y pose un pied ! Ici la navigation est parfois brutale, les vents peuvent ĂȘtre rafaleux et la mer soumise aux caprices des courants. PAs facile donc de s’en approcher et comme si cela ne suffisait pas, le mouillage Ă  l’ancre n’est pas possible Ă©tant donnĂ© de fonds trop profonds ne permettant pas de poser une ancre. Seule alternative, utiliser un corps mort de pĂȘcheurs durant leur absence. Mieux vaut donc prĂ©voir de rentrer avant la fin de la journĂ©e.
🇬🇧 Needless to say that to go around the island Raso, a boat is essential. Located about 10 nautical miles from the islet of San Nicolau, Raso islet is completely isolated and uninhabited. Only a cabin houses a guard supervising the respect of the rules on this islet, namely that no one sets foot there! Here navigation is sometimes brutal, the winds can be gusty and the sea submissive to the vagaries of the currents. It is therefore easy to approach it and as if that were not enough, anchoring is not possible given too deep depths that do not allow an anchor to be placed. The only alternative is to use a mooring of fishermen during their absence. It’s therefore better to plan to return before the end of the day.

Fr
En
đŸ‡«đŸ‡· Nous sortons de la baie de Tarrafal de San Nicolau. Comme souvent le vent est inexistant dans cette baie protĂ©gĂ©e par l’énorme volcan de Monte Gordo culminant Ă  1600m au dessus de la ville. Mais nous savons que dans quelques milles la protection ne sera plus effective. Nous partons donc avec une petite voile afin de ne pas ĂȘtre surpris et nous dirigeons vers l’ülot. Quelques dauphins tachetĂ©s croisent notre route et nous dĂ©vient un instant de notre cap ! Nous les laissons tranquille et reprenons le cap de l’ülot. Sans surprise les rafales de vent finissent par arriver et nous fait accĂ©lĂ©rer vers Raso que nous rallions aprĂšs moins de 2 heures de navigation. A environ 200m de l’ülot, nous sommes soudainement envahis de dizaines voire centaines de Moineaux du Cap-Vert (Passer iagoensis) qui se posent sur le bateau jusqu’à quelques centimĂštres de nous. Joyeux au premier abord, nous finissons par comprendre que ces oiseaux par dizaines laissent des traces fĂ©cales de leur passage. En d’autres termes ils chient partout et ce n’est pas facile Ă  nettoyer, croyez moi ! Mais curieusement, plus nous nous approchons de la terre, plus les moineaux quittent le bateau pour rejoindre le sol ferme. Nous avons alors tout le loisir d’observer d’autres espĂšces sur les falaises de l’ülot. Les puffins du Cap-Vert (Calonectris edwardsii) passent assez loin allant et venant du large qu’il survole comme des funambules Ă  quelques centimĂštres de la crĂȘte des vagues. Les paille en queue sont Ă©galement prĂ©sents. Je connaissais ceux Ă  bec jaune dans l’ocĂ©an indien, voici ici ceux Ă  bec rouge (Phaethon aethereus). Des oiseaux superbes qui nichent dans les falaises et partent Ă  la pĂȘche pour nourrir leur nid. Toutes ces espĂšces passent Ă  quelques dizaines de mĂštres du catamaran et nous les mitraillons avec notre objectif photo. Les fous bruns (Sula leucogaster) sont aussi de la partie. Un oiseau que nous sommes habituĂ©s Ă  observer durant nos traversĂ©es souvent positionnĂ© Ă  l’avant du mat. Cet oiseau a compris que le catamaran faisaient fuir les poissons volants sortant alors de la surface. C’est Ă  ce moment qu’ils piquent vers les poissons volant et les capturent en plein vol. Assez spectaculaire Ă  voir. Quelle adaptation lorsqu’on pense que cette espĂšce d’oiseau doit exister depuis quelques millions d’annĂ©e et que le premier bateau naviguant en haute mer n’est apparu il n’y a que quelques siĂšcles

🇬🇧 We are leaving the Tarrafal Bay of San Nicolau. As often, the wind is non-existent in this bay protected by the enormous volcano of Monte Gordo culminating at 1600m above the city. But we know that in a few miles the protection will no longer be effective. We therefore leave with a small sail so as not to be surprised and we head towards the islet. Some spotted dolphins cross our path and we deviate for a moment from our course! We leave them alone and return to the course of the islet. Some spotted dolphins cross our path and we deviate for a moment from our course! We leave them alone and return to the course of the islet. Unsurprisingly, the gusts of wind eventually arrive and make us accelerate towards Raso, which we reach after less than 2 hours of navigation. About 200m from the islet, we are suddenly invaded by tens or even hundreds of Cape Verde sparrows (Passer iagoensis) which land on the boat up to a few centimeters from us. Joyful at first glance, we finally understand that these birds by the dozens leave faecal traces of their passage. In other words, they shit everywhere and it’s not easy to clean, believe me! But curiously, the closer we get to land, the more the sparrows leave the boat to join the firm ground. We then have all the leisure to observe other species on the cliffs of the islet. The shearwaters of Cape Verde (Calonectris edwardsii) pass quite far, going back and forth from the sea that it flies over like funambules a few centimeters from the crest of the waves. The tail-shaped straws are also present. I knew those with a yellow beak in the Indian Ocean, here are those with a red beak (Phaethon aethereus). Superb birds that nest in the cliffs and go fishing to feed their nest. All these species pass a few tens of meters from the catamaran and we shoot them with our photo lens. Brown fools (Sula leucogaster) are also part of the party. A bird that we are used to observing during our crossings often positioned at the front of the mast. This bird understood that the catamaran was scaring away the flying fish then coming from the surface. It is at this moment that they sting towards the flying fish and capture them in full flight. Quite spectacular to see. What an adaptation when we think that this species of bird must have existed for a few million years and that the first boat sailing in the deep sea appeared only a few centuries ago...

Fr
En
đŸ‡«đŸ‡· La pause photographie nous prend environ 2 heures avant de se lasser tout doucement. Un corps mort de pĂȘcheur semble ĂȘtre disponible, nous dĂ©cidons de nous y arrĂȘter pour dĂ©jeuner. Ce sera Ă©galement un point de dĂ©part pour que je me rende de l’autre cĂŽtĂ© de la surface, Ă  30m de fond sous le bateau pour une plongĂ©e bien tranquille lĂ  oĂč trĂšs peu se sont rendus en scaphandre. De jolies couleurs, quelques poissons, mais pas de requins malgrĂ© la rĂ©putation des lieux. La nuit se fera ici et nous continuerons demain vers les piles Branco et Santa Luzia.
🇬🇧 The photography break takes us about 2 hours before slowly getting tired. A dead fisherman’s body seems to be available, we decide to stop there for lunch. It will also be a starting point for me to go to the other side of the surface, 30m deep under the boat for a very quiet dive where very few went in scuba. Pretty colors, some fish, but no sharks despite the reputation of the place. The night will be here and we will continue tomorrow towards the Branco and Santa Luzia batteries.

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Traduction

Note ! Text original is in french, english version. is only a reverso traduction

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Thank you !!

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!discovery

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Thank you very much

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Wow, what an extraordinary experience this is!

😄I was reading the English part and when I came across ‘dead body of fishermen’ I was so puzzled, then I realised you meant a mooring buoy.

So much life there! A feast for photographers! Thank you for sharing!

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Oh sorry...!!! I'm going to correct it immediatly. Google does not have boat !!!!!

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😅 Imagine that my native language is Spanish, and many times I translate quickly with Copilot because time is scarce
 hahaha
 how many odd things I must have said, even causing annoyance to some people here
 I sometimes wonder about that


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That's corrected !! Really sorry !

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👏 Don’t worry, these things are normal
 that’s how we all learn. Now I know how to say ‘mooring buoy at sea’ in English
 French, though, is still pending.

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